Pre-viewing:
1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
Ocean waves generally come from the North Pole or the Alaskan coast. Wind flowing over the ocean forcing water forward causing waves. The wind pushes and pulls the the water turning them into waves.
2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
They should know about the waves they are due to ride as every wave is different and there is 3 types of waves but only 1 is good for surfing.
Question for the Video:1.Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
Low pressure centres make a pressure gradient which causes an enormous amount of energy. The energy is put into the ocean which creates many waves from the huge storms.
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
There are 3 things which help to measure waves are wind speed, fetch and duration. They are formed by huge storms in the Alaskan sea. Refraction is the slowing down of waves to bend and focusing the waves towards the coastline.
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
A maverick wave is one that is up to 4 storeys high. In general is a wave that is huge/enormous. They are found at Mavericks, Northern California.
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
The wave energy is converted to kinetic energy when it hits the shelf. It then tips over and explodes onto the beach or coastline.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
Understand the physics of the wave that you are going to surf.
Be prepared to face the great big wave.
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